Cajamarca (days 11 and 12)

Little did we know on Tuesday, the rest of our hotel (Hostal Cajamarca) was occupied by a school group (approx. age 11) and their chaperones. We rapidly checked out on Wednesday morning, and found a charming little Hospedaje called Los Jazmines. Part of their profits go to a school for the disabled which teaches crafts, woodworking and practical training so that these kids can get jobs. Our room feels more like a cabin in the woods than one in the center of the city:


The walls are a little thin, but we especially like the hot shower with lots of pressure. Best shower I've had in Peru so far.

Wednesday morning we had a breakfast Cajamarquina (coffee, bread, cheese, fruit salad) at Don Paco, across from the Iglesia San Francisco. We then visited the Cuarto de Rescate where Atahualpa was held prisoner, a complex of colonial buildings called the Conjuto Belén, and the archaeological museum (one ticket gets you into all three, s/4).

Facade of the Iglesia Belén:

In the afternoon we went to the Baños del Inca, or Inca baths, a natural hot spot about 15 minutes outside the city. We got ourselves a 30 minute private hot bath at the Pabellón Imperial for s/5 each (totally worth it!) and then had some good ceviche at Cevicheria Bahia on the Baños del Inca town square.

Natural hot springs at Baños del Inca:

We took a combi back to the city (s/0.50 each) and sat in the plaza by La Recoleta:

We then headed to Sanguchon.com, a burger restaurant on calle Júnin, for the perfect Pisco Sour and the best burgers either of us have ever had in Peru (mind you, it was no U.S. burger, but it was tasty).

Unfortunately, Thor caught a bit of a cough and some bad congestion on Thursday, and spent the day mostly resting. I spent some time walking around the colonial city and went to the huge market just north of the river to see if I could pick up some blankets and other craft items.

Colonial entrance, typical in Cajamarca:

We had lunch at El Cajamarqués, one of the fancier restaurants in town, with a courtyard filled with exotic (and not so exotic) birds. We had a brief conversation with Keith Muscutt, an author who happened to be staying at or hotel. He has spent a lot of time in the more remote regions of the Chachapoyas area (the place we're headed next), and has published a book called Warriors of the Clouds which has some stunning pictures.

Bird of prey at El Cajamarqués:

By dinner time we were both feeling pretty tired and out of it, so we got some soothing soup at Querubino, another fine restaurant. We also shared a humitas (similar to a tamale, but filled with cornmeal and local cheese rather than meat) which was excellent.

Overall Opinions:
Hospedaje Los Jazmines: 7. We like this place, especially the nice showers, but the paper-thin walls were a problem. Our room is also a little noisy from outside traffic. Cost for double with bath s/60.
Cuarto de Rescate, Conjunto Belen: 8. Not all that scenic, but very interesting historically. Cost: s/4.
Baños del Inca: 10. Nice way to spend the afternoon. Bring your own towel. Cost: s/5.
Sanguchon.com restaurant: 10. Good burgers, best Pisco sour we ever had, good price and nice atmosphere.
El Cajamarques restaurant: 8. Food is ok, but the real appeal is the courtyard.
Querubino restaurant: 9. Good food and reasonably priced. Dinner for 2: s/60.