Chiclayo (day 21)

Everything we'd heard about Chiclayo lead us to believe that it was a fairly unattractive and somewhat unpleasant place to visit, but necessary for visiting some of the surrounding museums and archaeological sites. But, we actually found Chiclayo to be an interesting urban center, busy on its own without the need for the tourist industry. It was refreshing after being in some cities which clearly revolve around tourism.

Though Chiclayo lacks Colonial architecture and a picturesque feel, the streets are teeming with people and city life. The area south of the Plaza, especially along Av. Balta, has a number of banks, clothing stores and fine restaurants. North of the Plaza Av. Balta gets slightly seedier (some soliciting, etc.) but did not appear to be unsafe.

At the park in Chiclayo:


As appealing as it looked, we decided not to have lunch at Chifa "Piu Kee":

But the real allure of the Chiclayo area - no, not the prostitutes - are the museums outside of town, including the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan and Museo Bruning in Lambayeque and the Museo Sican in Ferreñafe.

We went to Lambayeque on Saturday morning, taking a taxi out there (s/15) and a combi back (s/1 each). The Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan had some impressive items from the tomb of Señor de Sipan (the Lord of Sipan) which had been undisturbed by huaceros (grave robbers) and was discovered in 1987. We were a little freaked out by the large amounts of preservative epoxy that had been applied to many of the metal and beaded objects, creating a glossy sheen that looked very unnatural. But, the collection is quite impressive.

After about 2 hours at the Sipan museum, we had lunch at El Admirable on the main street outside the museum. Lunch cost under s/10 for both of us and was not bad.

We then headed over to the Museo Bruning, the museum that got left behind. This museum was built in the 1960's to house Moche artifacts, and was the former home of the Sipan treasures. However, when the new museum was built in the early 2000's, pretty much all the good stuff got transferred out of the Museo Bruning, leaving it with an abandoned feel. There are some OK items here, but it's kind of sad looking. Still, it's so close to the other museum that it's worth a visit if you're in the area.

Museo Bruning:


We took a combi back into Chiclayo and loaded up on a hefty beef dinner at La Parra, an excellent grilled meat restaurant on M. Igauza. We recommend the medallions of beef rather than the brochettes, although both were very good. They also have a massive Chifa restaurant next door. But, the most unique thing about this restaurant was the decor: not just a deer head, but also a (male) deer ass mounted on the wall.


Overall opinions:
Hotel Paraiso, Chiclayo: 6. Great friendly service, nice lobby, very safe, but the room was a bit shabby and the hot water was a luke-warm dribble. Too bad. Cost for a double with bath: s/50.
Museo Tombas Reales de Sipan: 9. Nice collection, but it is really damn dark in there! Note that bags of any kind (including pocketbooks) are not allowed. Cost: s/10.
Museo Bruning: 5. The small collection pales in comparison, and the figurines were creepy. Cost: s/8.
Restaurant El Admirable, Lambayeque: 5. Decent menu del dia.
Restaurant La Parra, Chiclayo: 9. Excellent buttery steak. Pricey. 2 entrees plus wine: s/80.